TUTORIAL: How To Sew A Zippered Pocket

Take your bags to the next level by adding a zippered pocket!  Come on - I know you are tired of those simple slip pockets..... Don't fear the zipper....once you do this a few times, you'll be adding these beauties to all your bag creations. 

Ready?



STEP 1:  Prep
Decide how big you want your interior pocket to be and cut two pieces of fabric (square or rectangular) that will fit your bag.

If desired, use fusible interfacing to add some structure (totally optional)
Choose your zipper length based on the size of your pocket - (I like to use one whos total length equals the width of the pocket).  You can of course cut a longer zipper to size.  Note that you will need at least 1.5" on either side of the zipper pocket opening!

STEP 2: Draw the Zipper Opening
About an inch and a half down from the top of the WRONG SIDE of one of the pocket pieces, draw a rectangle that fits the size if your zipper.

The length needs to be the length of your zip teeth (not the entire zipper).  The width will need to be wide enough for the zip teeth (typically 3/8")

Draw a center line in the middle of the rectangle and create little triangles in the corners as shown below.

 

STEP 3 - Sew Pocket to Lining
Place the pocket RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER about 2 inches down from the edge of your lining piece.  This will allow for seam allowances and bag closures.

This image is deceiving because I added a yoke above this which increased the space above the pocket

Following the exterior lines of the rectangle, sew the pocket to the lining.  Do NOT sew the center line or triangle!

STEP 5 - Cut and Pull
Carefully cut along the center line (you will be cutting through both layers).  Also cut the little triangles being careful NOT to cut through the stitching.  To start the cut, you can use a seam ripper.

Pull the pocket piece through the hole you just made

Press with an iron to get a perfect rectangle

STEP 6 - Sew the Zipper
Place the hole on top of your zipper and position it correctly.  Pin in place. 

I like to use as few pins as possible to avoid crooked stitches.

Sew around the edge of the fabric to attach the zipper.  Go slow - these stitches are visible!

STEP 7 - Finish!
Yeah!  Pat yourself on the back - the zipper is finished - now you just need to complete the pocket.
Turn the lining with the zipper over so the pocket and wrong side of the zipper are facing up.  Place the second pocket piece on top (right sides together).  Pin the pocket pieces together making sure NOT to pin the lining.

 Sew around the perimeter of the pocket moving the lining out of the way as you go.  You DO NOT want to sew any of the bag lining in this step!

FINISHED!  Your zipper is now complete and you can go about assembling your bag!

This is the interior of this Nikki Tote:

I know you want to try this.....go ahead - it will make you VERY happy!  I promise!